Nina in primer, (S3 high build, two part). View above of fake stem, buffalo rails and pennant holder. a souvenir of the 2010 Mystic Boat Show.
view of port side looking forward. I like the gray of the primer against the white hull and may choose that as the color for the topsides. I may paint a sheer strake in the same red as the hull bottom.
Standing at the helm looking forward.
At the helm looking aft. The topsides are now finished other than final painting. All that is left is the interior of the cockpit, seating etc. Rear bench seat is roughed it but that's it.
Motorwell cover ready for final paint.
Tuesday, August 31, 2010
Windshield Cchoices For Nina
Mockup of side view of lobster boat type windshield, maybe a good choice for New England?
Sportfisherman windshield mockup. Maybe a good choice for the Gulf? I really like how the lines blend from the coaming. SWMBO likes this one best. I like the Lobstah one. the lobster windshield would have a hard top, okume ply for light weight, the sportfisher would have a bimini attached to the top edge.
Sportfisherman windshield mockup. Maybe a good choice for the Gulf? I really like how the lines blend from the coaming. SWMBO likes this one best. I like the Lobstah one. the lobster windshield would have a hard top, okume ply for light weight, the sportfisher would have a bimini attached to the top edge.
Sunday, August 29, 2010
This next section is on building the cabin top hatch
I decided to build my own cabin top hatch for Tumblehome Nina. I could have save hours of work by buying one but enjoyed the process of designing and building my own. The hatch consists of coamings that are about an inch proud of the cabin top made from 3/8ths Meranti plywood. They are shaped to follow the camber of the cabin top. Crowning the top edge of the coamings is a horizontal layer of 1/4 inch ply by 3/4 inch wide and fit to be flush with the inside of the coamings. The hatch top is fit to sit snugly on top of this layer of 1/4 inch ply. Later a strip of weather stripping will be applied to the inside of the hatch cover to fit directly above the 1/4 inch ply. This will elevate the hatch sides up off the cabin top to provide a drip edge. I am satisfied that anything short of a direct hit by a fire hose will not cause a leak.
There is a recess inside the hatch for a screen panel.
Building The Hatch Cover
First I placed a garbage bag over the coamings for the hatch to keep the new hatch from bonding to the cabin top or coamings. The sides for the hatch were then placed over the coamings having first been scribed to fit the shape of the hull and glued together at the corners. The sides were just the same height as the top of the coamings.
The first layer of 1/4 inch was glued to the top of the hatch frame and tacked where needed with bronze ring nails to be removed when all set up. After all was set up the router was used to trim flush and a second layer of 1/4 inch was added for strength and trimmed with a round over bit and covered with 6 oz glass.
The hatch with the first layer only waiting to be trimmed off. Fits nicely to the camber of the cabin top.
A possible choice for hinges for the hatch. Probably will use something different though. Very difficult to find hinges for hatches on small boats apparently. Lots of choices for larger hatches but this one is only a little more than an inch and one quarter high.
A long view of the hatch waiting for me to get back to work and put the camera away!!
The first layer of 1/4 inch was glued to the top of the hatch frame and tacked where needed with bronze ring nails to be removed when all set up. After all was set up the router was used to trim flush and a second layer of 1/4 inch was added for strength and trimmed with a round over bit and covered with 6 oz glass.
The hatch with the first layer only waiting to be trimmed off. Fits nicely to the camber of the cabin top.
A possible choice for hinges for the hatch. Probably will use something different though. Very difficult to find hinges for hatches on small boats apparently. Lots of choices for larger hatches but this one is only a little more than an inch and one quarter high.
A long view of the hatch waiting for me to get back to work and put the camera away!!
Pictures in the next post show the finished hatch.
Saturday, August 14, 2010
My cuddy hatch, fake stem and buffalo rails
Here is my cuddy hatch, no hardware yet. Top has 2 layers of 1/4 inch okume because I know someone will sit on it.
Buffalo rails with built in bow chocks. Rails are made up of three layers of 1/4 inch ply.
Fake stem made of the same 2x fir that I used for my skeg. Great old growth material that was salvaged from an old building. The chocks in the rails just got an extra coat of epoxy to make sure they will be tough enough for the job. No deck hardware installed yet. 6 oz. glass on all flat surfaces including motorwell cover, weave filled and sanded and ready for primer.
Buffalo rails with built in bow chocks. Rails are made up of three layers of 1/4 inch ply.
Fake stem made of the same 2x fir that I used for my skeg. Great old growth material that was salvaged from an old building. The chocks in the rails just got an extra coat of epoxy to make sure they will be tough enough for the job. No deck hardware installed yet. 6 oz. glass on all flat surfaces including motorwell cover, weave filled and sanded and ready for primer.
Old Boat Show in Burlington Harbor
Some beautiful old boats on display on a pretty day. A couple of Lymans, a Sleeper and a workboat launch, some nice mahogany types from the 50s, a great old Elco 34 footer from 1930 and a motorized launch from 1905 with a hand cranked one lunger. The pictures I took were mainly of building items that interested me. Here are a few detailing hatch construction
you can click on any one of these to blow up for some more detail. The one below has a deadlite.
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